25 Jul 2011
Approximately a year ago, I attended a reading at Barnes & Noble when Anthony Bourdain’s latest book came out. During the reading, a fellow audience member asked Bourdain what his favorite memoir written by a chef was (other than his own). His response was that he had just finished reading an advanced copy of a book that was by far “the best memoir by a chef ever.” That book ended up being Gabrielle Hamilton’s Blood Bones and Butter.
About two weeks ago I finished reading the novel by the New York restauranteur (Prune) and chef. Living in the East Village and frequently walking by her infamous, yet unassuming restaurant, I had always wanted to 1. eat at Prune and 2. know more about the chef herself. Particularly after Bourdain’s review and Hamilton’s even more recent accolade of Best Chef in New York by the James Beard Foundation.
Sadly, I finished the book with mixed feelings. I am glad to have read it, but ultimately felt unsatisfied. There was SO much personal background, but a lot left to be desired as far as her food coverage goes (at least in my opinion). I do still think that any food lover and restaurant frequenter - particularly in NY, should give the book a chance, but having now read it, I’d love to also have a sit down with Bourdain and find out what about the book he most enjoyed and the reasoning behind his acclaim.
Well-timed with my completion of the book, I did get the opportunity to experience Prune in person last week - and my experience there however, left NOTHING to be desired. It is now, by far, one of the best overall restaurant experiences I’ve had in New York to-date and I need to go back immediately. From the cozy atmosphere to the amazing fellow diners who were, for the most part, repeat visitors (a great sign!) to the outstanding service and of course the food, the FOOD - I can’t recommend this spot enough. We started out sharing the fried squash blossoms and the shaved celery salad with warm blue cheese toast, both of which were immediately devoured and were accompanied by the fried salted chick peas which come with every table. Those were a great and welcome alternative to the bread that we come to expect at every restaurant these days.
We followed the first courses up with roasted suckling pig with pickled tomatoes and swordfish with anchovy butter and new potato slaw. There are no words for how good both of these were - the pig was the right mix of spicy and sweet and fell apart on your fork; the swordfish literally melted in your mouth like butter. I could seriously have that meal every night for the rest of my life and be content. We accompanied these with the beet salad with spring onions and aioli - so fresh, seasonal and delicious.
The night was capped off with three desserts (too hard to pick just one!) The bittersweet chocolate pot de creme, and two others that were fantastic but were consumed so fast I can’t even remember what they were!
Overall, despite my lack of love for her memoir, Gabrielle Hamilton gets four stars in my book for her amazing work at Prune on its own. I’ll definitely be back again soon to try out their brunch, and another dinner!
